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NC500 - Cocoa Mountain here we come! (Day 5)

Since we managed to get a lot of the views of the north coast experienced the previous day, on day 5 we only had to worry about tackling the first single-track roads we came across safely and visiting a couple of leftover places. However, getting ahead the day before meant there was no rush and we could enjoy the rest of the north coast at a leisurely pace. The only time limiting factor we had was to make sure we got hot chocolates from Cocoa Mountain before it closed! The views from Thurso to Durness cannot be described by words alone, so, we have a few photos to try and share this beauty with you.





We wanted to visit Ard Neakie Lime Kilns but we were unaware that you couldn’t get up close. However, you didn’t need to do so to take in the beauty. Looking on google maps in hindsight, this information was provided and we would have been aware that there was a specified viewpoint (which we managed to drive past). Either way, we found a safe place to stop and take in the views.

Next stop after this was Smoo Caves. We were both hoping that we would be in luck as they offer boat trips into the cave in good weather. The weather had picked up slightly, but we didn’t get our hopes up as it had been raining all week due to some strong winds coming in from the south. Unfortunately we were not in luck and the trips weren’t running, but this didn’t disappoint us too much as they are notorious for being unable to provide the boat tours due to even a very small amount of rain causing the inner caves to flood. You are, however, able to view the waterfall cavern and take a walk out on top of the hill to view the coast.



We hit the road again and continued on to Durness, more specifically Balnakeil Bay. As you walk in there is a sign to say that this is a Site of Special Scientific Interest, so please obey by the guidance. After all, the rules are there for a reason. It is easy to be swept away by the beauty. If you walk across to the other side from the car park you can find wild rabbits. We didn’t get a picture of them are they hid in the burrows quickly and the one that did stay was hard to see on camera. However, we did manage to get pictures of the beach itself but, as you can probably see, the weather was still a bit hit and miss. Whilst writing this, I’ve just been irrationally annoyed by reading someone’s review on google as they advised you to climb the dunes. Yes, this will provide you with a better view and maybe even a closer look at the wildlife, but please don’t as there are clear signs not to. If we want to protect this special site then we need to do all we can and consider the consequences of our actions.


Next up, we planned to find our accommodation and then visit Cocoa Mountain, who are meant to provide the best hot chocolate in the UK. We both felt this is a reputation that they can maintain (not that we have had a hot chocolate from every establishment in the UK), but it was delicious. Nicole had a soya milk version of the hot chocolate and I had the original. I didn’t find the hot chocolate itself overly sweet, but with a drizzle of dark, milk, and white chocolate it could easily become it. I felt they have balanced it well. Nicole, on the other hand, found the hot chocolate a little sweet, which may have been due to the difference in the flavour using soya vs cow’s milk. The hot chocolate would not be suitable if you have an allergy or follow a strict vegan diet as the chocolate mix has milk powder, but they also provide tea and coffee. We have bought a few goodies, so we can let you know how the chocolate bars are once we get chance to enjoy these.

If we were to repeat the NC 500 again, we would not stop in Durness. We had finished up early afternoon and had plenty of time to carry further round the route. However, we did not mind an early pit stop as it gave us chance to do some washing and get everything refreshed for the second part of our journey. Our stay in Durness was in an Airbnb in Balnakeil Craft Village. Admittedly, we were not swept away by this stay as we had a few issues which we have raised to the host so hopefully they will not be something others would experience. Nonetheless, the place itself was lovely and well decorated (although probably not quite to our taste) and had been hand built by the owner which is something to be admired. 

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